So A Fond Farewell to the Philippines.....just for now!

Balinsasayao Twin Lakes Natural Park

Dumaguete 

Negros Oriental

16.10.10

I have to say how much I enjoyed our holiday in the Philippines. We finished off in Dumaguete City in the southern part of Negros, Negros Oriental to be precise, and from there flew into Manila. I had a hair raising ride up to Balinsasayao Twin Lakes National Park on Saturday on the back of a motor bike. Fantastic views over to Cebu and a truly beautiful place worthy of far more time.

In Dumaguete City  fiesta is getting underway so plenty of nightlife in the vicinity of our hotel, mainly singing. I have to say I have never been so struck by the number of elderly Western men with middle-aged Filipinas on their arms as in DC. These didn't seem like natural relationships.....hey what is?! The large number of Westerners would put me off linving in this area. I would much rather live in Bacolod if we were to move to the Philippines. Don't get me wrong DC is a fine place, on the sea and gentle and laid back!

A happy Benedict on the esplanade at DC

17.10.10

We went to mass at the Redemptorist Church on Sunday which was said by an elderly Irish Redemptorist priest who talked about patience in prayer and set it in the context of the good news story concerning the rescue of Los 33 in Chile. He also alluded to it being Mission Sunday and I couldn't help but think this Father is part of rapidly dwindling group of missionary priests. I can't see many missionary priests leaving from Ireland or Scotland to work in the missions. In fact the truth is that many churches in Europe and the West are importing their priests  from these mission areas. I am reminded of the surprise of an aunt in Australia at the arrival of two African priests in their parish in Tasmania.

Luna & Benedict at the Bethel Guesthouse

Dumaguete City

17.10.10

NAIA excelled, as ever! When we landed in the airport in Manila it was tipping down with rain, horizontal stuff. Cebupacific have a nice new terminal except for whatever reason our plane could not attach to the gantry and instead we had to make a quick dash in the rain with Cebu's staff handing out brollies! Tut tut! Otherwise it is a great terminal, except the display screens usually don't work, the free wifi doesn't work, long lines at immigration and for security checks and no exceptions made for parents with small persons, unlike Thailand where most times we are directed to the priority lane. Plus it costs me 750 PHP to leave the country a significant part of which is an airport "service" fee and in light of some of the above-mentioned difficulties, I think it is outrageously expensive.

But hey I had a really excellent holiday and really enjoyed myself! Mabuhay!

Negros Oriental, The Final Leg: Our Holiday in the Philippines Part 4

We didn't do a great deal more in Bacolod City but I had a pleasant restful time and I still rate Circle Inn a great deal.It is not perfect but it is good and the staff amply make up for the slow drainage in the showers! Hell I can live with that but I struggle with a room which has no electricity and no water at the same time that I have the Bestsy Trotwoods. I have paid more for such a room in BC while poorly! So well done Circle Inn and we will be back.

The whole focus of life in BC at the moment is the Maskarra Festival. Is it really a festival?! Or is it a bit of an orgy of excess and indulgence? I think more the latter! Traditionally it coincides with the harvesting of the sugar cane crop for which Negros is famous. It is difficult not to see sugar cane plantations when you drive around the Negros countryside. These plantations were once Spanish owned and managed haciendas and if you go to Silay, near the airport, there is one that operates as a museum today and is worth a visit. Maskarra is of course fiesta and in its modern reincarnation it means a major street party down town, shows, a market, a beauty pageant, talent shows and people come from far and wide to join in the festivities. I think it also means a lot of bother. Fortunately we managed to avoid any of the adverse stuff but in any event I am not a major sampler these days of so-called night life and this tends to be when the main action occurs.

So Thursday morning we headed for Dumaguete in the southern part of Negros, in Negros Oriental to be precise. Now they speak a different language here, Cebuano, so take note the barrier in this case is not the sea but rather a mountain range. Cebu is very nearby, but it is a separate island. We visited here a few years ago on my first trip to the Philippines accompanied by Luna's sister, Nenen. I liked it then and I still like it today. The only thing that is a little off putting is the high number of older Western men! But it is a lovely place.

I have to tell you about the best hotel I have stayed in in the Philippines and possibly anywhere. We are at The Bethel Guesthouse. As its name suggests it is a Christian establishment but it's not like you have to attend bible study or declare your opposition to evolutionary science. Nobody has God blessed me....yet! It is efficient, clean, friendly and well managed; it has a canteen serving out cheap, nutritious food. It is on the sea front facing the sea On each floor there is a service desk with a member of staff present to attend to your needs and just keep an eye on things. It is immaculately clean and the rooms are well equipped and comfortable. If you are down this way, check it out and see for yourself.

So we head back to Manila Sunday afternoon and onwards to Bangkok Sunday night. It's been a lovely trip.

Negros Occidental: Our Holiday in the Philippines Part 3

Ethan Joseph Edgar Occeña

A short delayed flight from Manila NAIA got us to Bacolod City on Monday 4th October 2010 in the early evening, after a smooth 3 hour bus ride from Balanga City. Our little gem excelled at the airport in one of those classic moments. Benedict approached a small girl about his own age as we waited to board our flight and planted a kiss on her cheek. What a delightful boy! I was fearful that Benedict might rough her up a bit as he can be a little exuberant at times.

Nice to be back in Luna's home town and to reconnect with her family. Bacolod is gearing up to celebrate Maskarras, a 19 day fiesta, with its origins in the city' strong Spanish antecedents and "maskarra" means mask, so face masks are the order of the day. You can find out all about it here: MaskarraFestival.

I have always enjoyed myself here in Bacolod City and a week later after my arrival that remains unchanged. We have met our newest member of the family, Ethan, daughter to the Nen and Edzell. I am Ethan's uncle! Here is a pic of our latest arrivals enjoying an afternoon nap.

Benedict and his cousins from l to r  John, Jason &Paolo

I am sorry to say I have only been once  to Calea, the world's best cake and coffee shop. However we have been to Imay's restaurant for a delicious traditional Filipino meal with Fr Jacob, Marjo, Glenda and Cherry who visited us a few months ago in Thailand. I am usually highly critical of food here. This was delicious including memorable deep fried aubergines in batter, crispy talong, probably the tastiest aubergine dish I have ever eaten.

Benedict loves shopping especially the trolleys

I had a terrible round of golf with a few friends at Negros Golf & Country Club. It is a good course, in fact I was pleasantly surprised by the general quality. I will be back. Reasonable green fees, good greens, helpful caddies and not busy at all when we played.

I took a brief trip down to Danjugan Island on Friday 8th October. I stayed one night and that was too few by about 6! What an amazing place and I recommend it to you unreservedly. Check out www.prrcf.org. This is the best eco-tourism style gig I have done. Basically I went to look at birds which are not everybody's idea of fun but you can walk, swim, snorkel, dive and just chill. They charge a flat rate of 2500 PHP per day ( about £35.00/ $50.00 US) and this includes everything except diving. I slept under the stars in an open wooden shelter under a mosquito net. I woke to the sound of the adjoining forest. Absolutely fantastic. The fee includes transport by boat to and from the island, all meals and snacks and there is a regular supply of coffee. The use of kayaks and snorkelling equipment is included and I got a ride by boat round the island and a guided walk from one side to the other. 

There is basically no one on this island. It is completely undeveloped and it is really beautiful. It has cell phone coverage but there are no plugs to recharge batteries. No music, just the sound of the natural world. The people who run it are really friendly and helpful and it is about 4.5 hours from Bacolod, including a short 30 minute banca ride. Check it out!

Early Sunday we took a trip to The Mambukal Resort which is about 45 minutes from Bacolod City and is in the shadow of Mount Kanlaon, an active volcano. What a great place! I went birdwatching and then joined Luna and the gang for lunch in one of the huts specially designed for this purpose. The resort gets very busy at weekends but is really great fun stinking of sulphur and resounding with the high pitched noise of the hundreds of bats which congregate in the trees. It really is a great place, an area of outstanding natural beauty including a 7 tier waterfall with a walkway up one side. I bumped into these carabaos on my travels and the butterfly is the work of Luna. Busy but recommended. 

And finally I had a laugh at these two small boys as they mounted this carabao and then attempted to make it move.

We are having a great time and I must say I have little hesitation recommending the Philippines to you.

Survival: Our Holiday in The Philippines Part 2

I have to say how much I am enjoying our holiday. There is no doubt that the Philippines is growing on me. We are now in Bacolod City (BC) in Negros Occidental; this is where my good wife hails from. I have never really had much of a problem with anything here in BC; it's a kind of honest-in-your-face sort of place. It's dirty and chaotic but nevertheless dynamic and right now the locals are gearing up to Fiesta, The Maskarras Festival which peaks on 19th October 2010.

Here are some tips to survive the pitfalls of travelling in the Philippines.

• Taxis: if the driver won't use the meter simply get out and use one that will. Don't negotiate, don't persuade, don't offer a tip. The driver lost the job and you are going to take your business to an honest driver whom you'll probably tip as well. I say don't negotiate because many drivers will agree to use the meter to get you in their vehicle and then tell you how the traffic is so bad and that there is no work out of the airport. Sorry dude, you're in wrong job. Just get out and take your business somewhere else. We did this at Pasay in Manila on Monday. We were offered 300 PHP to the airport, which came down to 200 PHP when we said we wanted the meter. We got out and got into another car on the meter. The fare on the meter was 62.50 PHP. We gave the driver 100 PHP.
• There is a food outlet near the arrival gate in NAIA, Manila. It advertises free wi-fi. We went in there to eat and use the wi-fi. We placed our order and the price asked for was higher than that on the board. I didn't challenge this.  I handed over some money and our staff member said to take a seat. I asked for the change and he said he would bring it over later. I said I wanted the change now and he gave me angry eyes. So he starts to count out change and he rounds his increased price up and I ask him why he is doing this. More angry eyes so I told him to cancel the order, give me my money back and that I would eat somewhere else.
• Beware the transportation people at the arrivals area in NAIA. There is a desk marked "TRANSPORTATION" immediately as you exit arrivals into the terminal proper. They appear to be up to something as they are not directing people to the designated areas for fixed rate/metred taxis. An official looking woman wearing an ID tag demanded to know where we were going. My wife said somewhere and a ridiculous price was suggested and this then came down when she raised her eyebrows. I don't know what is going down here but sure smells fishy. I would suggest you head straight to the signed taxi service area where you have a choice of fixed rate/metre cars.
• Hotels: there is an increasing number of new, good quality budget hotels that advertise rates online. Most of these have generators and so life continues as normal during brown outs (electricity outages). We are currently staying at the The Circle Inn in Bacolod City for 999 PHP a night. I have paid more for a room in this town without water and no alternative power supply. It's great and this hotel gets all our business when we visit here. Unfortunately there are many rip-offs around lodging combined with serious deficiencies in services.

Let me stress I have no downer on The Philippines or Filipinos. Increasingly I really like this place. I offer these tips in the knowledge that this is happening all over the world. "Caveat emptor" , "Buyer beware!" comes from the Romans so there is nothing new under the sun.There is just a lot of it going on here in the tourism sector. But let me state we are having a great time!

Our Holiday in the Philippines:Part 1

Benedict with his grazed chin and cut lip

Our wee boy drew blood for the first time yesterday, Friday 1st October 2010, in Balanga City when he fell and cut his lip and grazed his chin. He had us worried and when he woke and cried at 11:00 pm he had us worried again. This morning I am happy to say he is back to the usual Benedict.

Luna, Benedict and some local children

Puerto Rivas Ibaba

Balanga City

01.10.10

We arrived yesterday morning at 05:00 am and headed to Balanga City in Bataan. I was hoping to catch a fast ferry from Manila but alas the ferry is no longer so we ended up taking a taxi. In retrospect this was  the right thing to do as we were all tired from fllying through the night. The drive was uneventful through the northern suburbs of Manila and then north to Bataan. We checked into the Crown Royale Hotel and I have to say it is comfortable and amply meets our needs. A bit more expensive but it includes  a breakfast with free flowing coffee, and the food is edible!

Bataan province is part of the North Luzon region and this area has a strong connection with the US military: Subic Bay once housed the US Navy & Army and is about an hour from here. But Uncle Sam has gone. There was also a lot of action here during World War II and the Japanese surrendered here to bring hostilities in this theatre to an end. So there is quite a lot to do and see.

There is a genuinely easy feel to this place. I have made a couple of birding sorties  (botab.blogspot.com) and the locals are really friendly and easy going. I've also connected with Mark, a local guy who spent his adult life in California, but is in the process of resettling back in his home town. He's become our transport manager and I must say he's done a great job.

Saturday afternoon Mark brought his son Glen to the hotel with his school jeepney and off we went for a tour down to Marveles westwards along the Bataan peninsula. Nice day out! Sunday Mark and Glen took as for a tour of Subic Bay in he neighbouring province of Zambales. As I mentioned earlier Subic was the US military's base in the Philippines up to about 1985. It has a strange feel to it, seemingly falling apart and massively underused. There is a Subic Bay International Airport but it is not operational. The inland part of the base is untouched forest and it is excellent for birding. It has the added benefit of having exceptionally good quality roads so self-drive would be feasible. Another pleasant day out and particularily good to see such an interesting part of the Philippines.

I have to say I really enjoyed our trip to Bataan, a really nice part of the Philippines and worth a revisit I think.