Sunday, December 14, 2008

Thailand Today and Everyday

Sunday evening here in Ratchaburi. A quiet low key day. I must confess to an amount of boredom and restlessness, projecting ahead into the future and wondering what we should do if I do not find employment. Let me stress I have hardly made any effort. The thing is I really like life here and currently don't see beyond Ratchaburi. I think I would even prefer moving to the Philippines, but maybe not!

I like the general anarchy that prevails here. Yet at the same time people here are so tolerant. Two things stand out. Firstly every morning, early, saffron robed monks can be seen collecting alms from the people and in return they offer a prayer. This is done in the street, in market places, everywhere, in every part of Thailand. People have usually prepared the meals in advance. The more organised temples provide motor bike support so the alms are transported back to the temple so the monks are not overburdened and can continue. It is called "pindabaat" in Thai. I know there is a historic monastic tradition in the West but I struggle to see UK religious communities going out barefooted to collect alms or the population at large being willing to support them. It is a lovely sight in Thailand and says a lot about underlying attitudes and principles, a far cry from the seediness of the beer bar scene.

Secondly being a woman is seen as so desirable that a significant number of men dress up as women! It seems, in particular, to be an accepted part of growing up to experiment with gender and it seems most fathers accept this as opposed to beat the shit out of their sons for wearing some make up and growing their hair.I am sure most visitors notice this.

So these two facets of Thai life in particular stand out as making the place different, and suggest a high level of tolerance and acceptance. From driving around on a daily basis I notice in amongst the general chaos on the roads how rarely drivers use their horns. It is considered loss of face and therefore rude to use your horn, equivalent to shouting and being abusive, and these types of behaviour are generally frowned upon. Sure they happen, and sure you hear horns, but it is not the done thing, it is not how to get the job done!

And in the midst of this madness it seems that anything goes so long as it does not impact on anyone else. This does not amount to a perfect society by any means. But it is different and it is noticeable.

There is uncertainty about the political situation here as the various factions attempt to agree on the way forward. Our friend Thaksin is heavily involved from outside but cancelled a telephone speech proposed to an assembled 25,000 supporters last night in Bangkok. I cannot help but think the only real interest Thaksin can have in Thai politics is the recovery of his frozen assets. I struggle to see a wider or broader interest. Apparently a new PM will be elected Monday. I think Thai society needs a long holiday from Mr Thaksin.

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