Bangkok a World Class City

I have to say that putting aside things like police corruption, Bangkok really impresses me these days. The sky train ("BTS") and new interlinking underground lines have made it simple and stress free to get around the main central area. It would be good if the operating companies could provide a one day ticket that gives unlimited use of both the BTS and underground lines.

The traffic situation is still congested and always will be but I sense from personal experience that it does flow more easily. I think the pollution situation has also improved but on a hot,humid day it is always going to feel stuffy in a city like Bangkok. But the BTS and underground are a joy to use even when it is very busy. The high speed link to/from the airport is due to open this year and this should result in very rapid transfers. The only real blight will be accessing the Southern Bus Terminal which is way out west on the road to Nakhorn Pathom and home sweet home in Ratchaburi. The cognoscenti, of course, know that the various ferries that ply their trade up and donw the Chao Phaya river are the best way to travel and while you are restricted to a north south axis, the ferries can get you as far north as Ayuthya.

Bangkok also does 5 star extremely well. I can think of no more elegant and relaxing a place to pass a few days than the Marriott Resort on the east side of the Chao Phaya river. You'll pay a lot of money for the privilege but it is a gentle way to ease into this frenetic nerve centre.The free hotel ferry conveniently connects with the BTS. There are numerous top quality hotels in Bangkok and indeed accommodation for every budget but the Marriott stands out as being slightly off centre and spacious. Khao San Road road remains the epitome of backpacker central and is still a popular haunt for seasoned travel veterans, modern day gap year types and fit retirees on RTW junkets in search of cheap lodging.

Of course Bangkok is really an experience, it is not so much about doing things, it is just about being there and being caught up in this pulsating,throbbing and intoxicating city that seems to kick 24 hours every day. Hit the streets and suck in the smell of delicious street food followed by the stench of putrid drains! It is a city of such stark contrasts.....head for the Siam Paragon mall where Lamborghinis and Porsches are on display with every other known branded luxury item, plus a huge aquarium in the basement and in the service areas in the same mall you might well see a bunk bed in a store room which is home for a few cleaners. Bangkok's malls are true temples of retail and moreover offer respite when it is hot out on the street.

The early morning is very rewarding in Bangkok and in Thailand in general. You may encounter a bustling market bulging with stalls laden with fruit, greens,herbs and flowers and saffron robed monks on pindabaat, collecting alms barefooted from the faithful and in return offering a prayer and a blessing. The weekend Chatuchak market in the northern suburbs should be an absolute must for every visitor. It is billed as the largest street market in the world. I am sure its popularity in some ways contributes to its undoing but it is a great experience and there are some great buys for the shrewd.

I love the river, ideal for temple bashing, and just for getting a bit of breeze on your face when it is hot. Increasingly I am growing to like Bangkok's parks.....Lumphini right in the middle, Putthamomton way out west and Rama IX near Chatuchak market. I spent an hour in Lumphini at dusk yeterday looking at birds, nothing significant to report. In fact the people were the real draw, joggers, walkers, family groups out for a gentle stroll; the basketball courts were pretty lively too. SIx o'clock rang out and the park came to a complete standstill as everyone stood for the national anthem which blasted out through a PA System. Yup even the cool dudes playing basketball stopped their slamming as a mark of respect for HRH the King.

Without doubt the real charm of Bangkok is its people, the street vendors, the katoeys, the office girls in their demure twin piece suits, the motorcycle taxi riders, combined with their sheer verve and vitality. Never a dull moment.

I think and indeed I hope the future is very bright indeed for Bangkok.